Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Aux Combottes 2023 Domaine Arlaud

The Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 2023 from Domaine Arlaud is one of the most coveted and singular Premier Crus of the entire Gevrey-Chambertin appellation, surrounded by Grand Crus Latricières-Chambertin to the north, Clos de la Roche to the south and Charmes-Chambertin to the east. This climat of Les Combottes is among the most sought-after of Gevrey-Chambertin. It is characterised by rare elegance and absolutely remarkable delicacy. In the hands of Cyprien Arlaud, whose words during a tasting marked enthusiasts — "A Charmes must taste like a Charmes" — this Premier Cru is treated with the same biodynamic rigour and precision as his Grand Crus.

The terroir of Les Combottes

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Aux Combottes" truly captures the complexity and intellectual dimension of this promising Premier Cru, with well-defined dark fruits and minerals, touches of freshly rolled tobacco that develop over time. The geographical singularity of this terroir lies in its situation, nestled between several Grand Crus that Les Combottes could almost claim the status of, and some critics indeed rate it at their level. In the early 1900s, the climat was classified as "vineyard land at Gevrey-Chambertin", before being downgraded to generic Bourgogne years later. Pinot Noir vines are managed biodynamically, planted between 1925 and 1964, on a 0.45-hectare parcel with red, compact argilo-calcareous soils, with bedrock just centimetres below the surface, even breaking through in places. Soil ploughing by horse, green harvesting and hand destemming, manual harvest. Vinification with 30% whole bunches, gentle pressing, 16 months ageing in oak barrels. Bottled without fining or filtration, respecting lunar cycles.

Tasting profile

On the nose, an elegant bouquet of raspberry, redcurrant, pomegranate and toasted notes. A suave palate presenting very soft tannins, fine energy for this Gevrey Premier Cru. A ripe and expressive bouquet of redcurrant and morello cherry, with an intensity of dark fruits such as blackcurrant and wild blackberry, and more tertiary notes of damp earth. The attack is soft and succulent with fine tart freshness and a finish of fresh, lively cherry. Tannins are perfectly integrated, offering an absolutely delicious silky mouthfeel. The attack is suave, then refines with a burst of intense, penetrating minerality drawn directly from the terroir. The finish is long, brilliant and harmonious, endowed with vibrant flavours of red cherry and black tea. A Premier Cru of elegance, tenderness and depth that rival many neighbouring Grand Crus.

The domaine

Domaine Arlaud's origins trace to World War II, when Ardèchois Joseph Arlaud met and married Renée Amiot, a Burgundian whose family owned vineyards. In 1982, their son Hervé takes over and develops estate bottling. The third generation, Bertille, Cyprien and Romain, now manages the operation with one constant conviction: healthy grapes of high quality suffice to achieve excellence. Cyprien Arlaud joined in 1997 and has been winemaking since 2004, assisted in the vineyards by his sister who established a horse-ploughing service. Vines and soils are well tended, through horse ploughing, and ageings are increasingly mastered, yielding magnificent, very pure wines of remarkable finesse. The 15-hectare vineyard is certified organic since 2004 and biodynamic since 2009.

Food pairings

This Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes pairs beautifully with truffled poultry when the season allows, during January. More broadly: squab with wild mushrooms, lamb shoulder with Provençal herbs, beef fillet with truffle jus, or game birds such as partridge with cabbage. It will also harmonise well with ripe soft-paste cheeses such as Époisses or Soumaintrain. A decanting of 2 hours is advised, and the wine can be enjoyed over 15 years. Served between 15 and 17°C, it will progressively reveal the floral complexity, tenderness and depth of a Premier Cru in the immediate vicinity of the Grand Crus of the Côte de Nuits.