Sauternes 2020 Château d'Armajan des Ormes

The Sauternes 2020 from Château d'Armajan des Ormes is one of the most elegant and approachable bottles from this legendary Bordeaux appellation, awarded two stars in the Hachette Wine Guide 2024. This dessert wine from a property whose history stretches back before Charles IX embodies with grace and equilibrium everything the Sauternais knows how to produce at its most seductive. A Sauternes of roundness, complexity and generosity that far exceeds its rank and price.

The terroir and estate

The Perromat family, now in their sixth generation since 1828, runs Château d'Armajan des Ormes, ennobled in 1565 by a visit from Charles IX and Catherine de Medici. The vineyard, planted across 10 hectares in the heart of the Sauternes appellation, rests on the argilo-calcareous soils characteristic of the region, where Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle find their most luscious and complex expression. The blend comprises 70% Sémillon, 25% Sauvignon and 5% Muscadelle. Sémillon, the king grape of Sauternes, is particularly susceptible to Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that develops on the berries thanks to the morning mists of the Ciron river and the sunny afternoons that gradually dry them. This beneficial fungus concentrates the sugars, acidity and aromas of the grapes, giving these wines their richness, complexity and exceptional ageing potential. Harvesting is manual, conducted through five successive passes, with gravity filling of the press and pneumatic pressing to avoid oxidation and encourage aromatic expression. Fermentations are slow, in small stainless steel tanks, following a parcel-by-parcel vinification that allows selection of the best lots. Ageing then continues for 18 to 24 months in oak barrels. The estate has been converting to organic certification since 2020.

Tasting profile

The colour is a pale, radiant yellow. The bouquet, still discreet, reveals fine notes of acacia flowers and preserved citrus. The nose opens onto mango, dried apricot and honeyed yuzu, with touches of subtle vanilla and candied ginger. On the palate, powerful preserved fruit flavours emerge, well supported by elegant oak, in a register both rich and balanced. The structure is round and poised, with notes of soft spice, pepper and preserved fruits – orange, apricot. The palate is luxuriant and velvety, with an acidity that lifts and balances the sugar, bringing freshness and momentum that extends the finish with distinction. A Sauternes best appreciated between 2026 and 2038 to savour its full complexity, though already a pleasure to drink now.

The estate

The Perromat family comes from a long line of winemakers in the Entre-deux-Mers and Graves since 1828. The family operates two crus in the Sauternais: Le Juge, acquired in 1992 and commanded by a 17th century château inhabited after the Revolution by a justice of the peace; and its neighbour Armajan des Ormes, 10 hectares, ennobled in 1565 by the visit of Charles IX and Catherine de Medici. This dual historical and family heritage, combined with an organic approach engaged since 2020, makes Château d'Armajan des Ormes one of the most sincere and consistent addresses in the Sauternais.

Food pairings

This 2020 Sauternes will pair beautifully with semi-cooked foie gras with soft spices, mature Roquefort with caramelised walnuts, an apricot and almond tart, a preserve citrus dessert or vanilla crème brûlée. It is also delightful as an aperitif, served between 8 and 10°C, with slices of melon or homemade foie gras terrine. Its richness and complexity make it an ideal companion to lightly spiced Asian cuisines or characterful blue cheeses.