Rully 1er cru Gresigny 2023 Domaine de Villaine

The Rully 1er Cru Grésigny 2023 from Domaine de Villaine is among the most profound wines of the Côte Chalonnaise, from a vineyard planted around 1950, among the domaine's oldest Chardonnay vines. A Rully Premier Cru of pure elegance, full and flavourful, with a finesse that extends well beyond ten years of ageing.

The terroir and the vines

The climat Grésigny lies southwest of the Rully appellation, in one of its finest terroirs. Its name comes from old Burgundian and means small steep hillside. The parcel, just under one hectare, holds Chardonnay planted in 1950 on calcareous, stony mid-slope soils with marl and limestone. Situated a short distance north of Margotés, it shares the same calcareous vein. The domaine has leased it since 2011, though hail prevented any harvest that year, so the first vintage was 2012. The vines are farmed in certified organic and biodynamic agriculture, with hand harvesting. Vinification is natural, with fermentation and ageing in Burgundy barrels and oak foudres on fine lees, using very little new oak, so the wood remains delicate and does not mask the terroir.

Tasting profile

The colour is a luminous pale gold. The nose is slightly reserved, of elegant restraint, with ethereal aromas of peach and apricot, almost as though once the fruit flesh is eaten, the taste of the stone remains and makes the mouth water. The palate is full, flavourful and juicy, creamy and deeply mineral, with notes of pear, verbena, white pepper and fresh hazelnut. It retains a finesse and elegance that extends well beyond ten years of ageing. The finish is long, fresh and saline.

The domaine

Domaine de Villaine was established in the Côte Chalonnaise by Aubert de Villaine, also co-director of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, and his wife Pamela. He applies the same rigour here as at the Romanée Conti, biodynamic viticulture, organic certification, natural vinifications, hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes. Pierre de Benoist gradually took over its management from 2001. The domaine works three Côte Chalonnaise appellations, Bouzeron for Aligoté, Rully for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Mercurey for Pinot Noir.

Food pairing

This Rully Premier Cru pairs well with monkfish ballotine in lemongrass and verbena broth, shellfish, white meats or washed-rind cheese. Served around 12°C, it can be enjoyed now for the elegant restraint of its fruit, or in a few years for the fineness of its terroir.