Vougeot 1er cru Clos de la Perrière 2020 Domaine Bertagna

The Vougeot 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Monopole 2020 from Domaine Bertagna is the domaine's most emblematic and precious wine, a historic monopoly that built the house's reputation far beyond Burgundy's borders. It has been placed blind in tastings of Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru where it consistently ranks among the finest. Two hectares of Pinot Noir situated between Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru and Musigny, on draining, stony soils that yield powerful juices with elegant aromas of dark berries and spice, and fine intensity on the palate. The 2020 vintage is sunny, rich, and generously mature, universally regarded as one of the greatest of the decade on the Côte de Nuits.

Terroir and monopoly

The story of Clos de la Perrière is one of Burgundy's most fascinating and least-known. This clos is a monopoly, belonging to a single owner, unlike its neighbour across the way, Clos de Vougeot, which has roughly 80 different proprietors. The parcel, between 2.15 and 2.26 hectares depending on vintage, is enclosed by two monuments of Burgundy: Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru to the south and Musigny to the north. This geographical position of absolute nobility explains why this Premier Cru so regularly surpasses its rank in tastings. The terroir is draining and stony, with calcareous clay and mineral marl soils that confer on Pinot Noir remarkable precision, depth, and minerality. Viticulture is organic, with strict yield control through budbreak removal and green harvesting. Harvesting is manual, with table sorting. Vinification includes 35% whole bunches, cold pre-fermentation maceration, slow and gentle vinification in temperature-controlled vats, indigenous yeasts, and manual punch-downs, with a 21 to 28-day cuvaison. Ageing lasts 16 to 18 months in French oak, with 50% new wood.

Tasting profile

The colour is an intense ruby with purple reflections, dense and luminous, a signature of the sunny, concentrated 2020 vintage. The nose is immediately rich and complex: the bouquet reveals aromas of dried rose petals and violet, blackcurrant berries with soft spices framed by delicate oak. With aeration, discreet earthy notes and a deep, stony minerality gradually emerge, directly evoking the immediate proximity of Clos de Vougeot and Musigny. The 35% whole-bunch component brings an added floral and spicy note that enriches this bouquet with precious complexity and freshness. On the palate, a fine intensity of aromas balanced by a structuring mineral frame and silky tannins. The mouth is ample and fleshy in the 2020 vintage, carried by a tannin structure of remarkable fineness and velvety texture from long, gentle cuvaison, and fresh acidity well integrated that brings tension and length despite the sunny generosity of the vintage. The finish is long, mineral, and persistent, with a depth and purity that confirm the grandeur of this confidential monopoly. Drink from 2025 onwards with pleasure after lengthy decanting, or lay down until 2035 and beyond.

The domaine

Domaine Bertagna is situated in Vougeot, in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, its buildings adjoining the former Cistercian Chapter that founded Clos de Vougeot in the 13th century. Founded by Claude Bertagna and acquired in 1982 by the German Reh family, it is today directed by Eva Reh-Siddle and Denis Rozat at the helm of production, across 17 hectares covering 18 appellations including 5 fine Grand Crus. The Clos de la Perrière Monopole is the emblematic cuvée that best embodies the domaine's identity and ambition: an exceptional terroir, a historic monopoly, and meticulous vinification that places this Premier Cru at the level of neighbouring Grand Crus.

Food pairings

This Vougeot 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Monopole pairs beautifully with duck breast with spice and cocoa and sautéed cherries, braised lamb shoulder with glazed vegetables and summer truffle carpaccio, Bresse poularde with morels, or game birds such as partridge with cabbage or venison loin with wild berries. It also harmonises well with aged cheeses such as Époisses or Cîteaux. A minimum of one hour's decanting is recommended. Served between 15 and 17 °C, it will gradually reveal all the mineral depth, breeding, and elegance of one of the Côte de Nuits' most precious and confidential monopolies.