Bourgogne Roncevie 2023 Domaine Arlaud

The Bourgogne Roncevie 2023 from Domaine Arlaud is the entry point to the range of a domaine whose reputation rests on four Grand Crus and several emblematic Premier Crus of the Côte de Nuits. And as is often the case with conscientious vignerons, this entry is revealing, because behind the Bourgogne appellation lies a well-kept secret. These five hectares of Bourgogne Roncevie were once classified as Gevrey-Chambertin village. An accident of administrative boundaries drawn mid-last century relegated this parcel outside the communal appellation, without its terroir or character changing one iota. For discerning lovers, this anomaly is precisely what makes it a rare opportunity: to access the soul of Gevrey-Chambertin at a price that does not yet reflect its prestige.

The terroir and vines

The Roncevie parcel is located at the northern boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin's territory, on argilo-chalky soils typical of the Côte de Nuits, in direct continuity with the communal vines of the appellation. This contiguity with Gevrey-Chambertin is precisely what gives Roncevie its distinctive character: a structure, depth and minerality that far exceed what one might normally expect from a regional Bourgogne. The vines are managed in certified organic and biodynamic agriculture since 2014, with horse ploughing that preserves soil structure and life. The harvest is manual and carefully sorted. Vinification is carried out by gravity, with part of whole-bunch fermentation depending on the vintage, indigenous yeast fermentation, and ageing in oak with a measured proportion of new wood, followed by bottling without fining or filtration.

Tasting profile

The colour is a brilliant ruby with violet hints, lively and luminous. The nose is direct, expressive and immediately seductive: aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry and crisp red berries assert themselves naturally and spontaneously, accompanied by a light floral touch of violet and a discreet spicy note that betrays the Côte de Nuits origin of the terroir. On the palate, the wine is supple, fruity and possesses a beautiful natural tension, with fine, silky tannins, fresh well-integrated acidity that brings momentum and definition, and an elegant texture that unfolds with a candour and sincerity that directly evoke a well-born Gevrey-Chambertin village. The finish is clean, fruity and slightly graphitic, with that mineral return characteristic of Côte de Nuits vines that immediately distinguishes this Bourgogne from its plain counterparts. A wine of immediate pleasure and true character, accessible from today and capable of fine evolution over three to five years.

The domaine

The origins of Domaine Arlaud trace back to World War II, when Ardèche native Joseph Arlaud met and married Renée Amiot, a Burgundian whose family owned vineyards. In 1982, their son Hervé took over and developed the bottling operation. The third generation, Bertille, Cyprien and Romain, now manage the estate with an unwavering conviction: healthy, high-quality grapes are sufficient to aim for excellence. Cyprien Arlaud joined the domaine in 1997 and has been vinifying since 2004, assisted in the vineyard by his sister, who established a horse ploughing operation. The 15-hectare vineyard, certified organic since 2004 and biodynamic since 2009, comprises very fine terroirs across 19 appellations, from Bourgogne to the most illustrious Grand Crus of the Côte de Nuits.

Food pairings

This Bourgogne Roncevie pairs beautifully with farmhouse poultry roasted with herbs, rabbit in mustard sauce, fresh pasta with wild mushrooms, Burgundian ham with parsley or a selection of soft-paste cheeses such as young Époisses or Brie de Meaux. Served between 14 and 16°C, slightly cool, it will reveal all the fruity candour and natural minerality of a Bourgogne that is generic only in name.