Carignan Cuvée Ephémere 4 2023 Domaine Clément Lavallée

The Vin de France Carignan Cuvée Éphémère #4 2023 from Clément Lavallée is the most unexpected, freest and most generous cuvée from a winemaker who sets himself no limits when the fruit is beautiful and the fellow vigneronne is trusted. Each year he produces a surprise cuvée with grapes brought in by winemaker friends and vinified in the Burgundian manner, a freedom we cherish. The #4 in the Éphémère series is a Carignan, a Languedoc variety often overlooked yet capable, in good hands and from old vines, of a depth, freshness and originality that fascinates the most curious drinkers.

The variety, origins and approach

The Éphémère series is the freest and most personal collection from Clément Lavallée, a winemaker established at Saint-Bris-le-Vineux in the Auxerrois since 2019 with his sister Caroline. Each edition is numbered and produced in very small quantities—just a few hundred bottles—from grapes brought by winemaker friends from other regions, vinified in the Burgundian style at the family cellar. The #1 was a Mourvèdre from Bandol, the #2 also a Mourvèdre, the #4 is a Carignan, its source kept confidential but the quality of the grapes was decisive in Clément's choice. This Languedoc variety, long dismissed for its rusticity and alcohol richness when grown at high yields, reveals on old vines with low yields quite another character: natural freshness, tannins of surprising finesse, peppery notes and wild red fruit aromas of precision and complexity that sometimes evoke northern Rhône Syrah. Vinification follows the domaine's philosophy: cold pre-fermentation maceration, fermentation with indigenous yeasts and no added sulphur, work by gravity, ageing in Burgundian barrel, bottling without filtration with minimal sulphur.

Tasting profile

The robe is a brilliant garnet red with violet hints, lively and luminous. The nose strikes with immediate expressiveness and directness, in the style of all Éphémère cuvées: aromas of wild red fruits, raspberry, blackberry and black cherry open with spontaneity, accompanied by a pepper note characteristic of Carignan, liquorice, garrigue herbs and a light touch of violet. Burgundian vinification brings freshness and aromatic purity that immediately set this Carignan apart from heavier, more jammy southern versions. On the palate, the substance is surprisingly light and digestible for this variety: tannins are fine and well integrated, fresh acidity that is nicely woven brings drive and drinkability, and the structure, measured and precise, leaves all room for crunchy, generous fruit. The finish is peppery and persistent, with that return of garrigue and wild fruits that is the absolute signature of Carignan when well vinified.

The domaine

Clément Lavallée grew up around vines and wine, the son of vignerons. After studies in viticulture and winemaking and formative time at Chapoutier and Château Margaux, he decided in 2019 to create his own label on just 1.5 hectares, rented from the family domaine. From his first vintage, he banned synthetic products, works by gravity, keeps sulphur to a minimum and harvests at the last moment to guarantee optimal grape quality. On the particularly difficult 2024 vintage, he held his yields and swears he brought in musts among the finest he has ever vinified. The Éphémère series perfectly embodies the curious and generous spirit of this winemaker: never limit yourself to your terroir, share with friends, explore unexpected varieties, and above all have fun.

Tasting and food pairing

This Vin de France Carignan Éphémère #4 is best enjoyed slightly chilled, between 14 and 15°C, to fully enjoy the natural freshness and crunch of the fruit. It pairs beautifully with southern charcuterie, lamb tagine with prunes, wood-fired pizza with herbs and tomatoes, fresh pasta with ragù, or a plate of soft cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin. It is above all a wine of conviviality and sharing, to be opened unpretentiously with the curious and lovers who understand that the best surprises often come from cuvées you least expected.