Irancy 2023 Domaine de la Croix Montjoie

The Irancy 2023 from Domaine de la Croix Montjoie is the most ambitious red cuvée from this family domaine established in Tharoiseau in 2009, ranked by Tim Atkin MW in the Top 25 Burgundy estates to watch. Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, both agronomists and oenologists, have crafted an expressive, approachable Irancy with a floral, fruited nose that opens to a palate that is round, mineral and gently acidic, with good length. An appealing summer wine that reveals the character of Pinot Noir on the chalky terroirs of this understated Yonne appellation.

Terroir and vines

Irancy sits in the chalky hills of the Yonne, some twenty kilometres south-west of Chablis, in a landscape of steep-sided valleys and slopes that can recall the configuration of Côte de Nuits. It is the southernmost appellation of the Yonne and the only one dedicated exclusively to Pinot Noir at the communal level. Domaine de la Croix Montjoie, whose main vineyard is planted in Chardonnay under Vézelay, works parcels of Pinot Noir on the chalky soils characteristic of Irancy. The mineral and calcareous composition gives the grape a natural freshness, taut acidity and delicate minerality that sets Irancy apart from the more powerful Pinot Noirs of Côte de Nuits. The domaine practises reasoned viticulture and has been converting to organic farming since 2018. Harvesting is by hand. Winemaking is precise and non-interventionist: 50% destemming, cold maceration, gentle pumpings and fermentation in vat. Ageing lasts 12 months in older barrels, with no new oak, to preserve the natural freshness and typicity of Pinot Noir on this chalky terroir.

Tasting profile

The robe is purple with garnet hues, clear and bright. The nose is intense and expressive, with appealing dark fruit aromas, particularly blackcherries and blackcurrant, with hints of redcurrant that caress the bouquet as it opens. Floral, with delicate violet notes and a light peppery touch as it breathes. On the palate, the wine is mouth-filling and silky, with gentle tannins and dark fruit flavours echoing the nose, dominated by sour cherry that asserts itself with precision and elegance throughout the tasting. The finish is long, peppery and spiced, with remarkable natural persistence and freshness. An elegant and characterful Pinot Noir with a drinking window of around 10 years, to be enjoyed now or cellared for a few years.

The domaine

Founded in 2009 by Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, both agronomists and oenologists trained in prestigious regions such as Sauternes and the Rhône valley, Domaine de la Croix Montjoie has grown over the years to around fifteen hectares planted mainly in Chardonnay under the Bourgogne Vézelay appellation and Pinot Noir under Irancy and Bourgogne. Tim Atkin MW has ranked the domaine in his Top 25 Burgundy estates to watch. The conversion to organic farming began in 2018. The white wines are offered in three cuvées, L'Impatiente, L'Élégante and La Voluptueuse, which have established the domaine as a leading reference for the Vézelay appellation.

Food pairings

This Irancy pairs beautifully with grilled beef, eggs meurette with truffle, coq au vin, Burgundy snails, beef bourguignon, or a board of cured meats and aged cheeses such as Époisses or Comté. Served between 16 and 18 °C, with light decanting advised in its youth, it will reveal all the fruited freshness, chalky minerality and natural elegance of a Pinot Noir from the Yonne signed by one of Burgundy's most promising estates of its generation.