Irancy 2023 Domaine de la Croix Montjoie

The Irancy 2023 from Domaine de la Croix Montjoie is the most ambitious red cuvée from this family domaine, based in Tharoiseau since 2009 and ranked by Tim Atkin MW among the top 25 Burgundy domaines to watch. Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, both agronomists and oenologists, offer here an expressive, approachable and fresh Irancy, with a floral and fruity nose that opens to a palate at once round, mineral and gently acidic, with good length. A charming summer wine that reveals the true character of Pinot Noir on the chalky terroirs of this understated Yonne appellation.

Terroir and the vineyards

Irancy sits in the chalky hills of Yonne, some twenty kilometres south-west of Chablis, in a landscape of rolling hills and steep slopes that sometimes echoes the Côte de Nuits in its configuration. It is the most southerly appellation in Yonne, and the only one dedicated exclusively to Pinot Noir at the communal level. Domaine de la Croix Montjoie, whose vineyard holdings are mostly planted with Chardonnay at Vézelay, works parcels of Pinot Noir on the chalky soils characteristic of Irancy, whose chalky and mineral composition gives the variety a natural freshness, taut acidity and delicate minerality that set Irancy apart from the more powerful Pinot Noirs of the Côte de Nuits. Viticulture is reasoned, undergoing organic conversion since 2018. Harvesting is by hand. Winemaking is precise and non-interventionist: 50% destemming, cold maceration, gentle pumpings and fermentation in tank. Ageing lasts 12 months in older barrels, with no new oak, to preserve the natural freshness and typicity of Pinot Noir from this chalky terroir.

Tasting profile

The robe is purple with garnet reflections, clean and bright. The nose is intense and expressive, with appetising scents of dark fruits, particularly black cherry and blackcurrant, with hints of redcurrant that caress the bouquet in a second wave. Floral, with a delicate touch of violet, and lightly peppery in the glass's depths. On the palate, the wine is appetising and silky, with delicate tannins and dark fruit flavours echoing the nose, dominated by morello cherry that asserts itself with precision and elegance throughout. The finish is long, peppery and spiced, with remarkable natural persistence and freshness. An elegant Pinot Noir of character, with ageing potential of 10 years, to be enjoyed both now and after a few years in the cellar.

The domaine

Founded in 2009 by Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, both agronomists and oenologists trained in prestigious regions such as Sauternes and the Rhône valley, Domaine de la Croix Montjoie has developed over the years to reach some fifteen hectares planted mainly with Chardonnay under the Bourgogne Vézelay appellation, as well as Pinot Noir under the Irancy and Bourgogne appellations. Tim Atkin MW has ranked the domaine among his top 25 Burgundy domaines to watch. Organic conversion has been underway since 2018. The white wines are offered in three cuvées, L'Impatiente, L'Élégante and La Voluptueuse, which have established the domaine as one of the essential references of the Vézelay appellation.

Food pairings

This Irancy will pair beautifully with a piece of grilled beef from the barbecue, eggs in Burgundy sauce with truffle, coq au vin, Burgundy snails, beef bourguignon, or a board of charcuterie and aged cheeses such as Époisses or Comté. Served between 16 and 18°C, with light decanting advised in its youth, it will reveal all the fruit-forward freshness, chalky minerality and natural elegance of a Pinot Noir from Yonne signed by one of the most promising Burgundy domaines of its generation.